Saturday, May 29, 2021

The sky is green, and the grass is blue



 

Cathy at the Philpot Lake overlook
Dolly Parton penned these words in a love song about her world gone topsy turvy without the one she loved. The weekend before Memorial Day went topsy turvy for a friend and me as we camped at Virginia's lovely Fairy Stone Park. I've written about the park several times as I've taken Ruthie, the paddle club and my friend, Caroline, there to paddle the beautiful lakes and hunt for the legendary fairy stones. When Cathy asked me to take her someplace this spring and I learned she hadn't been, it seemed like the perfect place to take her. 

Cathy on Goblintown Creek
We did all the fun camp things--hiked the lovely woods, ate the fun camp foods we otherwise pass up, and we paddled Fairy Stone Lake up the Goblintown Creek enjoying wonderfully mild weather and anticipating the pending outburst of 17 year cicadas that had not quite arrived.


Tommy Edwards, 1945-2021

And then we got the news Saturday morning that after a short, hard battle with pancreatic cancer, bluegrass legend and husband to a dear friend, Tommy Edwards, had died.

Born the year that Bill Monroe and the Blue Grass Boys formed their band and created a new genre of country music, Tommy Edwards spent the last 50 years of his life as lead vocalist and guitar player for the North Carolina band, Bluegrass Experience. He did many other good things as well and you can read about his exemplary life (I don't say that lightly, Tommy was awarded the Order of the Long Leaf Pine the day before he died and was able to enjoy the honor of it) at a wonderful tribute published by the Chatham County Arts Council:  https://www.chathamartscouncil.org/a-tribute-to-tommy-edwards/

But Cindy, his wife, and Tommy have been personal friends as well. I met Cindy in their antique shop in Pittsboro when I first moved to town. I may have known Tommy played music but my first memories are of Tommy's jokes and Cindy's warm welcomes when we visited their store. I later opened a yarn store just up the street. The local newspaper did a series on the two of us and a local realtor as examples of women entrepreneurs in the community. As business neighbors, Cindy and I became friends, and as we discovered mutual interests and common background, the friendship grew and continued long after my store closed. 

When my husband was suddenly killed, Cindy and Tommy were there for support and to provide encouragement to my children. They took us to dinner, invited us to their home and to their beach house. They let the kids know they were cared for and watched over. There was a small cadre of men,  husbands of my girlfriends, friends of their father, and one gentleman who just heard about Greg's death and gave his help, who offered themselves as what I called "20 Minute Dads". It doesn't take much to keep a kid's spirits up and just knowing these fellas could be called upon for a bit of assistance or conversation has made a huge difference in my children's lives. My children have a cadre of good, strong and generous women around them as well, with Cindy in the lead, but in the beginning, having just lost their dad, it was the generosity of these men that provided a timely light. Sadly, Tommy is the third one of these good men my children have lost. My son told me some years back that the best thing I did for them as a parent was to share my friends with them. I could not be more grateful than to have these good friends to share.

While everyone knew Tommy from his music and the stage, what many folks don't know is the role of anchor that Cindy has played through their 43 year marriage. She was the place of peace he came home to after playing Mr. Bluegrass for his fans. She has been his bookkeeper, his social media manager, and the deepest love of his life. His exuberance on the stage has been made possible by the sanctuary of his home and the hard work of his teammate there. I don't think I understood the depth of their reliance on each other until I called their home right after Cindy had experienced a health crisis. It's the only time I ever knew Tommy unable to make a joke. Tommy always let her know how much he appreciated her and their relationship. Cindy told me recently that even during the last days when he faced so much pain, he made a point of saying the sweet things that had always wooed her. There must be a special place in heaven for these good men and I trust he and Greg are there now trading fun and singing. 

There have been many wonderful tributes paid to Tommy, and I expect there will be more. I know Cindy appreciates the recognition and memories. I hope, along with all the good memories shared, she's wrapped up in love and support as well. For now, the sky is green. That will pass. But I suspect the grass will always be blue.





Wednesday, May 5, 2021

Valley of the Vapors

 

The Vapors by David Hill
 (the book cover really is oriented this way)

Hot Springs, AR is know as The Valley of the Vapors due to a unique geological formation that allows water to seep so close to the earth's core that it returns to the surface heated, steaming, and full of minerals once thought to be healing. It takes rain water 4400 years to complete the full cycle and it is against the law to bottle this water for commercial purposes. Instead, both hot and cool springs of water are directed through public taps where anyone can bring a bottle and help themselves. Because the water's healing properties were once deemed so valuable, the US government held the land "in reserve" long before there were national parks. Hot Springs may now be the nation's smallest national park, but it is the first land held by the government for the benefit of its citizens. Unlike other parks, the park service doesn't manage the land for natural preservation, rather the land is managed to preserve and protect the natural supply of spring water. In addition to people of wealth and celebrity coming to Hot Springs, professional baseball teams for years held their spring training in Hot Springs so that players could access the healing baths. A few bath houses still operate as spas, but modern medicine has provided more reliable treatments and the health spa heyday is well past.

One of the hot springs

In addition to its history as America's Spa, from 1936 to 1968, Hot Springs was the nations premier
Old and New

location for gambling and entertainment. Unlike Nevada, where gambling is legal, Arkansas never allowed gambling, but local entrepreneurs and the mob teamed up to placate local authorities and create a Mecca of casinos, elegant hotels, fine restaurants and performance venues for the nation's top entertainers that operated unfettered for over 30 years. A recent book, The Vapors by David Hill, provides an engaging documentary of Hot Springs during these years. My daughter, Jessie, and I have both passed through Hot Springs--over 50 years ago for me, right after the casinos were shut down, and three years ago for Jessie. We both were struck by the sense of an incredibly wealthy place fallen on hard times. For her 30th birthday, I offered to bring her back.

Hot Springs has been through several periods of boom and bust. It is full of incredible buildings of wide architectural diversity, modern and historic often side by side, and sadly, with few exceptions, mostly in decay or some, simply abandoned. The park service is preserving the bath houses on Bath House Row, the main street in town and has landscaped it with gorgeous magnolias. The Fordyce House is open to the public as a museum. The mountain behind Bath House Row is maintained by the park service with many of the original walking trails and an observation tower at the summit. 

Storm that just missed us

The night we arrived, wicked storms passed just to the north of us and the tower was closed due to a power outage. Several of the paths were blocked by downed trees. But the Fordyce House was open and Jessie enjoyed poking around the local wax museum and several of the shops. After that, an employee of the campground directed us to a spectacular overlook in the Ozarks--Hickory Nut Mountain Vista overlooking Lake Ouachita, a hydroelectric lake home to over 300 islands.

So it's been a lovely trip. We head home tomorrow. Hopefully the storms have all played out. Enjoy the pictures and know that the best part of the adventure is coming home to share it with friends.

                                        


The Arlington

A very bad wax museum

The Waters newly renovated


Magnolia Walk

Bath House Row


1933 Hospital turned rehab center


Fordyce House entrance

Fordyce House lobby


Fordyce House massage room

Fordyce House bath stall

Fordyce House steam closet


Fordyce house Men's Bath

Fordyce House 2nd Floor Community Room

Fordyce House men's gym


Mountain Tower

Mountain Trail


Hickory Nut Mtn Vista on Lake Ouachita

The Vapors--the last and greatest luxury casino, then a church, now abandoned and for sale.

Sunday, May 2, 2021

Oh, Chattanooga Choo Choo!

Chester Frost Park Campsite

Our view








My late husband passed his love of trains on to our kids by taking them places like the Chattanooga Choo Choo. When Ben was about 4, we decided to try our first long distance trip as a family. Ben was in love with the Great Smoky Mountain Railway video Greg ordered from public television but we couldn't find a room anywhere nearby as there were 100 federal marshals in the western mountains earnestly searching for Eric Rudolph. So we took the kids to Chattanooga. We stayed at the Choo Choo, at the time a Holiday Inn, which was a hotel created from the old train station, and took them to the marvelous Tennessee Aquarium after visiting a local train museum. Greg also took them to ride the Incline Railroad to Lookout Mountain. She who is afraid of heights stayed in the room that day and learned from the news that US embassies in Africa had been bombed and all the federal marshals had abruptly left for overseas. I booked us a room and we road the Great Smoky Mountain Railroad through the Nantahala Gorge on the trip home, marveling at the woods deep enough to hide a man from the marshals and craning our necks hoping for a clue that might earn us the $1 million reward on his head.

Jessie just turned 30 and we are back in Chattanooga to revisit those memories and on our way to make more in Hot Springs, AR. We are staying in Hixon, TN in a lakeside campsite in lovely Chester Frost Park on Lake Chickamauga. Jessie's dog, Franklin, and my Odie are with us and mostly being civil. 

Entrance Rock City

On our first day here we visited Rock City, a place I had not been. Jessie enjoyed it on a solo trip to the southwest. It's a natural boulder formation on a mountain top just over the Georgia State Line. You really can see 7 states from Lover's Leap. It was developed in the 1930s by a real estate developer who is noted for inventing miniature golf, and his German wife who had a penchant for preserving local plant life and illustrating German fairy tales with garden gnomes. So it's a lovely, natural garden among striking rock formations punctuated by creepy gnomes ending in a black light show of fairy tale illustrations. Odd but interesting. 

Tennessee Aquarium

Today, we had lunch at the Choo Choo and visited a much larger Tennessee Aquarium. Traffic was heavy and parking was expensive (and the aquarium wore us out there was so much to see) so we did not explore much of the riverfront walk except to make it to the pedestrian bridge traversing the broad Tennessee River. 

We are resting up for a long day tomorrow, probably driving in wind and rain, to our Hot Springs campsite. Enjoy the pictures and remember you can click on any of them to enlarge them for closer viewing.

Sunlight through the rocks

   

Cavern of Fairy Tales











See 7 states from Lover's Leap (really!)

Chattanooga Choo Choo!

The view from our table at the Frothy Monkey

Main Lobby Choo Choo

Choo Choo platform



Silly giftshop hats

More silly hats



















Notice the gator's toe nails




Pedestrian bridge

On the pedestrian bridge

Franklin waiting on supper