Wednesday, October 16, 2019

Columbus Day?

Tin can banjos for sale
I have mixed feelings about the controversy between Columbus Day and Indigenous Peoples Day, but I'm pretty clear that having a national museum closed on a minor holiday when folks might actually have the day off to visit is a really dumb idea. Particularly when the choice to remain closed is not evident on the website. It was Google and Yelp that informed us, not the site itself nor the message on their answering machine. Sigh.

Ruthie is moving and I have had a week of contractors behind me and a week coming up so we decided we'd claim a "found" day and head home. On the way in to Cincinnati, we stopped again at the lovely town of Metamora,
Lunch!
IN to visit the shops, pet the draft horses, shoo the ducks and admire the only wooden aquaduct still functioning in America.

We were hungry and when we asked around we were directed to The Smelly Gourmet. The menu was pretty limited to a ribeye sandwich with caramelized onions which was pretty good. But the real discovery was their "hull-less" popcorn. Apparently Smelly's (we didn't ask) nephew, in deference to folks suffering from diverticulitis, developed and now cultivates hull-less varieties of popcorn. I have
Main Street
brought a bag home to try but if the caramel corn I had for dessert was any indication, I may be mail ordering my popcorn from now on. The stuff was good and my dentist should have no complaints. I took the picture of their wall of tin can banjos for my son who used to enjoy making them and teaching his fellow 4Hers how to make and play them. At $32 a pop, he might should get into making them again.

My grandmother Burnside's family came from Metamora, the Gordons. Any history of Metamora starts with their incorporation in 1838. My late friend and
Little Free Library
amateur historian, Bill Dow, years ago sent me an article about a Scottish experimental community by the name of Metamora. Wish I could find it. My Gordon ancestors were mentioned. Indiana, at one time, was full of experimental communities--communes long before the age of hippies. Residents shared property and all worked for the community good, until they didn't and my great something grandparents moved away
Horse drawn canal boat
and in 1835 build my grandmother's house. I have asked several times, and searched the Internet for the history of Metamora before 1838. Either the town is ashamed of their hippie past or the Scottish community was located somewhere else, but family lore has it as the Metamora we visited. The shops and scenery are fun and we make a point to visit whenever we are in the area. That said, the state of the buildings and the merchandise for sale indicate the difficult economic situation of the local farmers that might visit for a Sunday afternoon to ride the canal boat or the
How a canal crosses a creek
steam train with their grandkids.

We did enjoy the good food. And we bought some stone ground cornmeal from the water-powered grist mill. We didn't buy any chatchkas this trip but I suspect we'll be back to support them as we can. They are working hard to keep this town of 188 going. And they do bother to keep the correct hours on their website...

Mill dam at the start of the canal

Saturday, October 12, 2019

Searching again for Fall

Jordan Lake courtesy Flickr
You may recall our search for fall colors last year. My ordinarily lovely maple trees went straight to brown last fall. We'd had flooding from hurricanes last year. This year, it is wicked drought. It's a little early for fall color at home but many trees are just brown. It's disconcerting.



Ironton Bridge
Last weekend, I booked a campsite at Crosswind Point at Jordan Lake. I was hoping to catch up with the Randolph Ramblers club. Apparently, no one but me booked for the meetup so folks went their different ways. I don't regret the weekend, though. On Friday night, I paddled at sunset with my friend, Cathy who lives nearby. Ruthie joined us after dark for supper. And Ruthie and I hiked and paddled on Saturday. Ruthie is in the middle of moving, Cathy was just off traveling and then having company for a week, and I have been dealing with contractors and we were all three exhausted. The peace of the woods and the water is always healing, something we depend on. It was painful seeing the woods around us so
Near West Union, OH
stressed by the tremendous heat and dry weather this late into the fall.

This past Thursday, Ruthie and I headed up to the Fiberglass RV Rally we'd attended last year in Brown County State Park. We left town on the heels of Hurricane Matthew last year. This year we arrived in Indiana in gentle rain, but the drought has affected the midwest, too. Despite the rain, the fire risk remained elevated. That
Rural Ohio church
said, we are seeing the beginnings of fall here.

We raced up to Huntington WV to spend the first night. The trip really began for us when we crossed the Ironton-Russell Bridge at Ironton, OH on the Ohio River. My favorite route to Indiana is on US 52 which runs along the Ohio River through old river towns from near Huntington into Cincinnati. In addition to the river views, the towns are full of historic buildings
Grant's Birthplace
and old homes we so enjoy. This year, there was a lengthy detour which took us away from the river but through other old communities we'd not visited before. It also took us past the entrance to Edge of Appalachia, a private nature preserve of 20,000 acres protecting  the biodiversity of fragile ecosystems at the base of the Appalachian escarpment. And we passed President Grant's birthplace.

Grant Memorial Bridge
We had lunch at a Frisch's Big Boy, a memory from childhood. The rain started after that and continued into the night. We had a small panic at the camp site. The electricity did not come on when we plugged in. It was after 5p and getting dark and expected to drop into the 30s. Kudos to the Indiana State Park system. We called the ranger station and an electrician appeared and replaced the circuit breakers in the park's electrical box serving our site. Our relief at having heat was considerable. To celebrate, instead of cooking,
Guess who?
we headed up to the Abe Martin Lodge for their fried chicken buffet and amazing cobblers. We slept warm and well last night.

We did see some fall color. Brown County's moniker is "The Little Smokys" and they do resemble our Appalachian mountains back home. Most of Indiana is flat--a gateway to The Great Plains, but the glaciers stopped here in southern Indiana, leaving this ridge of hills with impressive vistas and intimate winding roads. There are lots of log cabins--old and new--including old barns and newer vacation homes. The town of Nashville, IN is a resort and artist's community. We poked around Nashville in the morning. After lunch we enjoyed an engaging visit with some of the
Abe Martin Lodge
fiberglass campers gathered here for their small, annual rally.

There rally organizers planned a pot luck supper at 5p which left us just enough time to go hunt down a couple of covered bridges. Indiana is home to 98 covered bridges, including 14 built before 1870. There is an unusual two lane covered bridge at the entrance to the park (RVs go in through another entrance). We located that, then set out to find the
The Little Smokys
1808 Bean Blossom Covered Bridge. I was glad for the practice driving Lemhi Pass last month, the road was steep and narrow. We made it just fine, though I wondered at the effort a horse would require pulling a wagon. And I guess those old Model Ts were pretty tough, but I was glad for a modern truck and did use the 4WD down the grade.

You may recall Decision Point on the Lewis & Clark Trail. It's a national historic site where the Marias River joins the
Log barn
Missouri, so named because the boys had to make a decision which way to go (apparently a common problem throughout their trip whenever a new river joined up with the Missouri). Many of our stops on the Lewis & Clark trail were these river confluences with historic markers playing up the drama. Somehow, our intrepid heroes always figured which way to go. So we were tickled to see a sign to Hesitation Point inside
Door to the Nashville Arts Guild
Brown County State Park and had to see where it went. It's actually a trailhead to a vista on Kin Hubbard Ridge which we may hike tomorrow. Kin Hubbard was a humorist who created cartoons and sayings based on his old mountain man character, Abe Martin. Brown County State Park and the Abe Martin Lodge were dedicated to the memory of Kin Hubbard whose dry wit entertained Hoosiers for years. I have enjoyed my grandfather's old Kin Hubbard books and though it's been a while since I read them, I vaguely recall Hesitation Point being the vista where a fella took his girlfriend to propose. We can only hope their success matched that of Meri & Bill.

The pot luck was great. TOO much good food, lots of friendly folks, including a
Sidewalk at the Arts Guild
woman who reminded me last year she wanted to buy my Scamp when I was ready to sell and made sure I had her phone number again. The heat is on, the trailer is cozy and we have had our bit of fall color.

Tomorrow we head down to Cincinnati via Metamora, IN. We'll poke around the old shops and viaduct in Metamora, set up camp in North Bend, OH and spend Monday exploring the Underground Railroad Museum in Cincy. Levi Coffin, a member of New Garden Friends Meeting in Greensboro, just up the street (Friendly Avenue, no less) from First Friends, where I now attend, was called the President of the Underground Railroad. The museum in
Brown County State Park North Entrance
Cincinnati is located near where slaves crossed the Ohio River to freedom until laws were tightened and the Canadian border became their goal. I know a little of the history but am looking to learn more. Max Carter of Guilford College gives walks and talks through the New Garden Meeting and Guilford College campuses pointing out where the railroad passed through there and how escaping slaves were hidden and directed on to the next safe place. We'll make the trip home from
1808 Bean Blossom Bridge
Cincy to Greensboro in the course of a day and be grateful we don't have to make it by dark and on foot. That said, I look forward to reporting on what more we learn on Monday.

Hesitation Point